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flame out error of 6980

Discussions about GC and other "gas phase" separation techniques.

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When dry air source was changed, I've got a fault 214 "flame out". It tries to igniting two times then shut down H2 and dry air :roll: . Has anyone experienced this situation? The machine is agilent 6980

Thank you for your answers and helps...
When dry air source was changed, I've got a fault 214 "flame out". It tries to igniting two times then shut down H2 and dry air :roll: . Has anyone experienced this situation? The machine is agilent 6980

Thank you for your answers and helps...
Default 6890 FID cutoff current is 2 pA.
If your air is much cleaner than previous air source, signal current may be lower than cutoff setting in your 6890.

Chech signal level when FID is lit and compare it with cutoff setting.
When dry air source was changed, I've got a fault 214 "flame out". It tries to igniting two times then shut down H2 and dry air :roll: . Has anyone experienced this situation? The machine is agilent 6980

Thank you for your answers and helps...
Default 6890 FID cutoff current is 2 pA.
If your air is much cleaner than previous air source, signal current may be lower than cutoff setting in your 6890.

Chech signal level when FID is lit and compare it with cutoff setting.
it sounds so logical. I will try tomorrow.
thank you so much
Do you have a flow meter? Measure the flows individually and make sure they are correct. Try blowing gently on the ignitor when it is glowing. You may also want to turn the hydrogen up a bit for a minute or so before trying to light. If it still isnt working try using a cigarette lighter. Once lit make sure the signal is normal (not too high > 15 DU and not too low.. I've seen situations where the fid is plugged a bit with graphite and it was difficult to light and once lit the signal was very low around 2-2.5 pA and would easily go out. Flows measured correctly, but when I removed the jet and column and held a flashlight underneath I could only see a tiny bit of light.

Another good way to check for a restriction in the jet is to turn all gasses off and then turn the H2 on and set it for a flow of 90, scroll down and check the reading of the make up flow (even though it is off.) If there is a plug some of the H2 will go backward into the pressure controller and be detected as make up flow, a normal reading would be 0-3 and a plug could show like 9-15 mL/min.
Do you have a flow meter? Measure the flows individually and make sure they are correct. Try blowing gently on the ignitor when it is glowing. You may also want to turn the hydrogen up a bit for a minute or so before trying to light. If it still isnt working try using a cigarette lighter. Once lit make sure the signal is normal (not too high > 15 DU and not too low.. I've seen situations where the fid is plugged a bit with graphite and it was difficult to light and once lit the signal was very low around 2-2.5 pA and would easily go out. Flows measured correctly, but when I removed the jet and column and held a flashlight underneath I could only see a tiny bit of light.

Another good way to check for a restriction in the jet is to turn all gasses off and then turn the H2 on and set it for a flow of 90, scroll down and check the reading of the make up flow (even though it is off.) If there is a plug some of the H2 will go backward into the pressure controller and be detected as make up flow, a normal reading would be 0-3 and a plug could show like 9-15 mL/min.
Thanks for your response. I will check the H2 response now. And I uploaded the response of GC on youtube. I changed the lit offset from 0.1 to 4 but it doesnt work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eR_8zDsLhig
First step is to find out if the flame is burning or not - do not trust the flame out indicator. Set all the gas and air flows to what they are supposed to be, check them with a flow meter. Go through the flame lighting procedure - you might hear a quiet pop, if so good, if not don't worry (yet). Get a cold, shiny surface (like a big shiny spanner for e.g.) and hold it just above the "chimney' of the FID. If it is burning you will se a mist of condensed water on the shiny surface. If the flame is burning but the flame out indicator shows flame out you need to play with the settings (as in dblux's post) and also look at clearing the autozero to get all the electronincs back to a real baseline. If the flame is really not burning then gas flows and what aldehyde said is the way to go.

I would comment that you should not be able to see a difference in baseline when you change air cylinders because you should have a carbon scrubber in the air supply.

Peter
Peter Apps
"I would comment that you should not be able to see a difference in baseline when you change air cylinders because you should have a carbon scrubber in the air supply."

this this a thousand times this, and there should be some form of indicator as well! a trap does you little good if it gives no indication that it is totally saturated with water and oil from some rogue tank of evil gas.


edit: after watching that video I would also turn off your make up temporarily, it may be blowing out the flame when it turns on. I think gently blowing on the glowing igniter cable as it is turning on will also help--it just looks like your standard finnicky annoying FID.
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