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[Waters 2695 & 2487] A revival

Discussions about HPLC, CE, TLC, SFC, and other "liquid phase" separation techniques.

4 posts Page 1 of 1
Hi,

In the context of my job, I get an old Waters system that I would like to get in good shape to use with students in the lab.

Unfortunately I have some issues ... but I'm also very happy to find a solution, sometimes on this forum :mrgreen:

On this project, I didn't want to use any proprietary software running on an old computer.
Based from a publication I build a little Arduino analog to digital converter to save the signal of the detector on a .txt. I then develop a little script in Python to use hplc-py wich allow me to easily visualize and detect peaks.

Everything was nice and going to work until I have a hardware problem with the LC.

First with the detector 2487. The classic issue with the battery that I already replaced twice.
Second with the LC 2695. Looks like to be a problem of priming or pump. I still have to invest.

My main question was this one "Does other peoples trying to do something similar on this forum ?"
Maybe have you already tried to explore something with the RS-232 or GPIB some SCIPY communication ?

For the moment, my detector is just looping is a startup. I think that the battery is again dead. Somebody knows how to fix that permanently ? Maybe by using a stepdown converter the supply directly the mainboard ?

In any case, I would be happy to share you what I already made if it's interesting you. I also have an old GC Variant on the side, I plan to use it with exactly the same setup :D
sounds nice. Often older systems only becomes unusable because of the software... ecologically not that sustainable... only economically... (other topic of course)

I once experimented with a Pi stripchart recoder but not for too long before we could get a detector which was fully supported by the software.

So I will just comment on your issues. Just some hints on your vague info.

Detector:
If the battery was replaced not too long ago, it's doubtful if that is again the issue. The button cell normally lasts > 5y.

Another issue that can make the startup to fail are:
1) air or dirty flow cell.
It's a good practice to first start the flow with 100% methanol or acetonitrile before power up the detector. In this way the flow cell is flushed and bubble free and the internal startup-checks should pass.
2) a worn lamp.
I just had this last week on a 2998. At first, it could be seen that the lamp got some power but finally the lamp stayed just dark (observed at the back of the mounted lamp.) Replacing the bulb with a fresh one solved the issue.
3) A failing shutter.
Do you here some 2-3 repeating clicks during startup?
During startup check, the shutter cycles between closed-opened several times and the differences between the energy read is measured. If the shutter stays closed, the tests will fail. (same if the lamp energy will be too low because of a failing bulb)
The shutter is just a "rod-like device on a solenoid" which is moved in and out of the light path. So the clicking comes from the solenoid. I guess it wasn't too hard to replace it maybe you can even try to repair the solenoid if there are no spare parts anymore.


About the 2965:
You don't describe the issue, so just generic ideas:
1) blocked inline-filter, so the piston can not move forward (because of too high backpressure
-> open purge valve, the start-up should pass
2) sticking check valves (often on primary piston)
-> flush (wet prime) the pump with methanol before resting. Do not leave acetonitrile with zero flow for longer periods.
3) button cell on mainboard
(left hand side cover)
4) blown SMD resistor on piston's mainboard
in general easy to replace once knowing where and if you have the SMD-resistor, but a bit laborious to get the pump board out (left hand side, bottom below the piston drives, can be slid out after disconnecting some cables)
This resistor is easily blown if the main power switch is not turned in a fast and continuous way
2487 can get stuck in a boot loop if the low power board's output is not very close to 5.2V. Use a multimeter (set for DC voltage) and small screwdriver to adjust.
When this happens, you can usually get a little more time out of this board, but know that it will need replacing.

Search elsewhere (probably within this forum) for a more detailed description and/or pictures of how to adjust this pot.
Thanks,
DR
Image
I'm interested to refurbish waters pumps and detectors into more modern controlled systems. I have developed some hardware to do so. Message me to discuss.
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