Re: Shimadzu 20-AD pump leak
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 4:30 pm
1. One trick to check for piston scratching (sapphire piston assumed) or other damage is to hold a laser pointer against the end of the piston and the piston will "light pipe" (glow), and show any imperfections in the surface of the piston as lines (scratches) or dots (chips).
2. While it usually isn't necessary with reversed-phase, you might consider using a seal wash on a regular basis. I believe that the 20AD has a flushing passage behind the check valves; just flush a few mL of water through to remove any water soluble stuff (buffer deposits, etc.), then chase it with a few mL of MeOH or IPA to remove the water. In extreme cases, you can add a continuous flush, but this rarely is required unless the ionic strength is very high (e.g., >10 mM).
3. Although it doesn't apply here with the 20AD operating at conventional <6000 psi / <400 bar pressures, with UHPLC, the higher pressures force the seal more tightly against the piston and the added friction can cause it to heat and fail early. In such cases, a continuous seal wash acts as a cooling stream to keep the seal from overheating and early failure.
-- John
2. While it usually isn't necessary with reversed-phase, you might consider using a seal wash on a regular basis. I believe that the 20AD has a flushing passage behind the check valves; just flush a few mL of water through to remove any water soluble stuff (buffer deposits, etc.), then chase it with a few mL of MeOH or IPA to remove the water. In extreme cases, you can add a continuous flush, but this rarely is required unless the ionic strength is very high (e.g., >10 mM).
3. Although it doesn't apply here with the 20AD operating at conventional <6000 psi / <400 bar pressures, with UHPLC, the higher pressures force the seal more tightly against the piston and the added friction can cause it to heat and fail early. In such cases, a continuous seal wash acts as a cooling stream to keep the seal from overheating and early failure.
-- John