by
DR » Thu Oct 13, 2022 5:06 pm
I guess you could stick one of those color change strips on the side of the tank that shows where the temp change line is. When/where it goes from liquid to gas, there's a cool spot which transmits well through the wall of the tank due to the high thermal effusivity of metal. The only other sign you will get is that when the last of the liquid CO2 converts to gas, you will have much higher than usual pressure fluctuations in the primary stage of your regulator. As long as there's any liquid CO2 in there, tank pressure should be constant.
Planted aquarium keepers refer to this as "end of tank dump" and it is the reason 2 stage regulators are heavily favored by them - when you're running low on CO2 is the most likely time for your tank to be poisoned by excess CO2 (ironic!). If you have a 2 stage regulator and your CO2 is down to gas only, a small increase in ambient temp. is far less likely to result in the death of all of your fish.
I kind of like the scale idea - just get an OLD doctor's scale, determine the weight of your new, full CO2 tank and slide the big weight over by not quite the expected weight of CO2 and order a new tank when the beam moves off the stop. IE - for a 20# tank, determine the weight and then slide the beam weight over about 18 pounds... when you've used 90% of the tank, you should hear a "clunk" when the beam moves. I don't think that system would work in my living room, however...